Swarming touts and tourist hordes: Modern travel's ugly realitiesBorder crossings, by land, and the process of personal transitionReligious sites, from Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock to Murudeshwar's Hindu DisneylandThe clang-clank, clang-clank of wheels on trackEncounters with the Old World's diasporas, from South Africans in China to Chinese in LaosFestivals of colour, water, women and wineWhat catches a weary traveller's eye?Drunken crossings between the British Isles, feluccas down the Nile and Southeast Asia's riverboats

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