photo essay

The Mekong reflects dusk's eerie light

Luang Prabang: The Elements of Heritage

Luang Prabang is a riddle that photographs can solve. It is a town popular with tourists and a World Heritage site, but it rarely feels [...]

songkran

Songkran Festival in Bangkok

Songkran in Bangkok feels more like a monumental three day water fight than anything sacred…Futilely swinging my pistol in defence, we made our way to the road leading directly to Khaosan. Throngs of chalk-smeared people ran through the whitened streets; where it was too crowded to run, they edged forward, with nowhere to hide from the ceaseless ambushes.

Bathers in dawn's golden light, reflected on the Ganges

Dawn on the Ganges

Sunrise and sunset are when the Ganges is most magical and most alive, with activity and with ceremony. Varanasi’s intense heat hasn’t yet descended on [...]

An Brahmin and a priah dog pass a door advertising Thums Up, India's spicy cola

Varanasi’s Doorways

Mark Twain visited Varanasi in 1895, while following the equator around the world. “Benares” he wrote, referring to the city by its Raj era name, [...]

A cycle-rickshaw driver in Allahabad

Rickshaw Art in a City Settled by God

Cycle-rickshaws rattle along streets across Asia, carrying freight as well as people, but Allahabad’s cycle-rickshaws were special: rural landscapes and Bollywood starlets, as well as animals and symbols of luck were hand-painted onto the carriages. The armrests were carved in the shape of fish, and occasionally the whole carriage had been carved – hollowed out to more closely resemble an animal, or sculpted at the edges in decorative waves and columns.

The Taj Mahal

Ticking off the Taj Mahal

Claire and I visited the Taj Mahal on Monday morning. It was a departure for us: despite spending nine months in India four years ago, [...]

Claire and Iain post-Holi, in Hampi

Holi: India’s Festival of Colours

Two days ago, the Times of India’s Delhi insert included an article on the “ten dirtiest things crazy revellers had played Holi with.” It was impenetrable, like so [...]

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