Slow Boat Home to Luang Prabang
At the foot of Lasagongma Mountain, 5224 metres above sea level, the Mekong takes its first icy breaths. Under Tibet’s cobalt skies, it tumbles toward [...]
Luang Say Lodge, Pakbeng
A review of Luang Say Lodge, high-end accommodation in Pakbeng, Laos, halfway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang on the Mekong River.
The Luang Say Residence, Luang Prabang
Set within a subtropical garden of palms, ruby red flowers and trees that burst with ripe bananas, Luang Say Residence and its elegant architecture bring [...]
Nong Khai’s exceptional sculpture park
Nong Khai is a place most people pass through briskly, on their way from Thailand into Laos. It is modestly-sized, but the town’s infrastructure makes [...]
Hike to Houy Fai Peak
A travel story about a trek in rural Laos, near Luang Prabang, and the fine line that divides tourism from voyeurism.
Paying Homage to Henri Mouhot
When Henri Mouhot travelled to Luang Prabang, he was the first white man to enter Laos in 25 years. He died beside the Nam Khan, where a tomb stands as a testament to his journey and his journals, “scribbled generally by the light of a torch, and on my knees at the foot of a tree.”
Luang Prabang: The Elements of Heritage
Luang Prabang is a riddle that photographs can solve. It is a town popular with tourists and a World Heritage site, but it rarely feels [...]
Vang Thong Hotel, Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is Laos’ proverbial treasure chest, encircled by two rivers and lush green scenery, with a sprinkling of golden temples that gleam in the [...]
An Alternative to Tubing in Vang Vieng
Claire and I went to Vang Vieng to laze in a grove of Edenic green. It was a picture-perfect fantasy, conjured up by a postcard [...]
Land of the Banana Pancake Eaters
A jaded view of tubing along the Nam Song River in Vang Vieng, Laos, and other bad backpacker behaviour on the Banana Pancake Trail.
Off the Record in Vientiane
A man I met in Vientiane, who spoke eloquently about the city and how it had changed, initially gave short, guarded answers to my questions. [...]
The Chinese of Vientiane
A portrait of the Chinese immigrants transforming Laos’ sleepy capital.
Night Train to Nong Khai
A night train from Bangkok to Nong Khai, on the border of Laos, is an opportunity to indulge in fantasies of the East.
Pathoumphone Guesthouse, Luang Prabang
French doors onto the river Pathoumphone Guesthouse is away from the epicentre of Luang Prabang’s tourist strip, on a peaceful riverside street, lined with cafés [...]
Syri I Guesthouse, Vientiane
Three years later, and it’s home An elegant old bedroom, huge mugs of local coffee, a balcony with chilled beers and Vientiane’s Old World charm [...]